DELCAM SHOE COST

software ini di design untuk digunakan di industri sepatu, fungsinya adalah untuk menghitung atau mengkalkulasi penggunaan material yang digunakan pada komponen sepatu dengan menggunakan metode interlocking material (saling mengisi dan menutup)

apakah benefit nya?? - software ini mudah untuk dipelajari dan digunakan karena sudah menggunakan Graphical user interface (GUI) - mempunyai tingkat keakuratan yang tinggi dalam penghitungan kalkulasi material nya karena menggunakan parallelogram dan metode SLM

- dapat mengimport patterns ato pola sepatu langsung dari software Delcam crispin engginer ato juga dapat melalui import DXF

DELCAM CRISPIN ENGINEER

ENGGINER

Delcam CRISPIN Engineer lets you produce 2D footwear patterns in the fastest possible time, allowing you to
get sample and graded patterns to manufacturing or tooling faster. Fast, accurate grading saves you the cost
of outside grading by a third party, whilst helping to control the costs involved with tooling. The aesthetics of
the original design are maintained by using a digital model for all aspects of the pattern engineering process.
With Delcam CRISPIN Engineer you can,
● Draw style lines directly into the flattened last formes to create a new standard (shell)
● Digitise formes or standards to develop the 2D sample or production patterns
● Apply underlay and folding offsets, plus markers for part alignment and stabs for eyelets, perforations
● Mirror the inside/outside to open out the pattern.
● Test each part for pattern efficiency
● Grade any to any size range and fitting
Key Benefits
● Delcam CRISPIN Engineer is very easy to learn & use
● Reduces the time taken to produce completed sample and production patterns
● The efficient pattern engineering process reduces product lead times to market
● Adjustments or re-sampling of upper parts takes seconds instead of minutes
● Accurate and customisable 2D grading eliminates third party grading costs.
● Patterns are viewed by colleagues/customers anywhere in the world with Delcam CRISPIN 2D Viewer
Screen shot of Delcam CRISPIN Engineer

With Delcam CRISPIN Engineer you can,
● Draw style lines directly into the flattened last formes to create a new standard (shell)
● Digitise formes or standards to develop the 2D sample or production patterns
● Apply underlay and folding offsets, plus markers for part alignment and stabs for eyelets, perforations
● Mirror the inside/outside to open out the pattern.
● Test each part for pattern efficiency
● Grade any to any size range and fitting
Key Benefits
● Delcam CRISPIN Engineer is very easy to learn & use
● Reduces the time taken to produce completed sample and production patterns
● The efficient pattern engineering process reduces product lead times to market
● Adjustments or re-sampling of upper parts takes seconds instead of minutes
● Accurate and customisable 2D grading eliminates third party grading costs.
● Patterns are viewed by colleagues/customers anywhere in the world with Delcam CRISPIN 2D Viewer

Key Features
● Detailed help pages
● Part properties for assigning material type, direction of cut and colour groups
● Layers for simplified viewing of complex patterns
● Multi-point transformation, transform existing patterns onto new last formes
● Data import and export via PDF
● Automatic and manual springing tools
● Edge Templates for applying predefined part edge treatments
● Fully customisable grading, to any number of sizes and fittings
● Automatic pattern part efficiency assessments
● Engineer patterns and parts can be viewed, printed and plotted in the Delcam CRISPIN 2D Viewer
● Standard outputs to Delcam CRISPIN PatternCut, Prospector, Plot/Cut and ShoeCost.
● Delcam CRISPIN TechPac for producing 2D technical packages is now bundled with Engineer
Additional Options
● Delcam CRISPIN StitchTec – Add on functionality for producing pallet layouts for automatic stitchers
Free 2D Viewer
● Delcam CRISPIN 2DViewer – A free pattern/part viewer, with tools to annotate, print and plot.

 

brannock device foot measurement

The Brannock device

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Designed in 1927, The Brannock Device® foot-measuring tool is a must in all footwear fitting environments. The device's measuring accuracy, quality construction, and simple, yet functional, design, is what has made genuine Brannock measuring devices the standard in the footwear industry.

Shoe sizes and foot sizes are not the same. The foot needs adequate room within the footwear for comfort and performance. The Brannock Device foot-measurer is designed to indicate the correct shoe size allowing enough room for comfort.

By providing a starting point for fitting, the device eliminates guesswork. All adult models incorporate the same three functional aspects; heel-to-toe, arch, and width measurements. These three measurements are critical for properly fitted footwear.

Please note: This is a measuring device for shoe fitting, not to measure foot size. Its is accepted by shoe fitting experts that all shoes should be one size larger the foot. The Brannock measuring system is designed on the basis of this observation.

Instructions for use

1. Prepare the Device
The width bar should be set to its widest position and the arch length indicator should be slid back, so the foot can be positioned easily on the device.

2. Position the Foot
Have the customer remove their footwear and stand, placing their right heel into the right heel cup. The customer should stand with equal weight on both feet to ensure that the foot being measured has elongated and spread to it's maximum size. Be sure the heel is properly located against the back of the heel cup, by grasping the customer's ankle and device together.

3. Measure Lengths

Heel-to-Toe Length - Press the toes flat against the base of the device and look straight down over the longest toe (not necessarily the first toe) to read toe length. Make sure the customer's socks are snug against the toes (without drawing the toes back) to yield an accurate measurement.

Arch Length (Heel-to-Ball) - Place your thumb on the ball joint of the foot (as shown in the photo to the right). Slide the pointer (A on diagram) forward so the inside curve of the pointer fits the ball joint of the foot and the two high ribs come in contact with your thumb. When the pointer is properly located, the lower middle rib will be against the ball joint on the side of the foot. This yields the arch measurement.

4. Find the Correct Shoe Size
Compare the arch length to the heel-to-toe length. Generally you'll use the larger of the two measurements as the correct shoe size. If the arch length and heel-to-toe length are the same, this will be the shoe size. If the heel-to-toe length is larger than the arch length, then fit to the heel-to-toe size. If arch length is larger than heel-to-toe, then fit to arch length.

Heel-to-Toe Measurement	Arch Measurement	Shoe Size
8	8	8
8	8½	8½
8½	8	8½

It is important that both measurements be taken and compared to find the proper shoe size. Simply using the heel-to-toe length may result in an improper fit.

5. Measure the Width
Slide the width bar firmly to the edge of the foot. Locate the shoe size (as determined in step four) on the movable width bar and view the width measurement indicated by the properly determined shoe size. If the shoe size falls between widths, choose a wider width for a thick foot, a narrower width for a thin foot.

6. Cleaning the Device
Clean tbe Brannock Device with a damp cloth. Use liquid dishwashing detergent if necessary. Do not use spray cleaners or disinfecting solutions as they may adversely affect the measuring areas of the device.
6. Measure the Other Foot Reverse the device end-for-end and measure the other foot following the steps described above. Be sure to measure both feet, then fit the larger foot. It is common to have feet of different sizes.

7. Remember the Fitting Process
When used properly, the Genuine Brannock Foot-Measuring Device® is designed to indicate the correct shoe size. This is the first step in the fitting process. Due to differences in manufacturing, styling, and other variables, it is up to each fitter to be knowledgeable of shoe styles and fit characteristics. It may be necessary to make compensation in sizing to achieve a proper fit for each individual customer. The fitting process often involves trial fittings to ensure that the proper size was selected.

 

Conversion chart

FOOT MEASUREMENT

Feet are measured for a variety of purposes. A bespoke shoemaker requires information about his customer’s feet so that he can either have lasts made or can fit up lasts chosen from his stock in order that the footwear made on them will satisfy the fit and comfort needs of that particular customer.

A manufacturer producing footwear in bulk requires sufficient information about the feet of the segment of the market that he seeks to satisfy, for him to be able to produce a range of lasts in sufficient sizes and fittings on which he can make a number of styles which will satisfy the needs of the largest percentage possible of that market segment for the lowest cost in last plant, equipment and finished stocks on the selves of his and the retailer’s stock rooms.

The retailer needs to measure his customer’s feet in order that he can select from his selves the footwear that when tried on the customer’s feet, will produce an acceptable fit.

1. Measurement for bespoke footwear

  The bespoke shoemaker would often require :

  1) A draft – outline plan of the foot with weight on

  2) An impression – to show the distribution of weight

  3) A profile – to show height of big toe and instep contour

  4) Length ( taken on a size stick )

  5) Width ( taken from draft )

  6) Girth measurements ( locations markets on draft ).

  a) Joint – around metatarso – phalangeal joint

  b) Waist – smallest girth behind joint

  c) Instep – smallest girth passing over prominence on middle cuneiform

  d) Long heel – seat to instep to give “pass line” in riding boot

  e) Short heel – seat to lowest crease in front of ankle

  f) Ankle – around and above ankle bones

  g) Calf, thigh as necessary

Introduction
  

1. Feet are measured for a variety of purposes. A bespoke shoemaker requires information about his customer’s feet so that he can either have lasts made or can fit up lasts chosen from his stock in order that the footwear made on them will satisfy the fit and comfort needs of that particular customer.

1. A manufacturer producing footwear in bulk requires sufficient information about the feet of the segment of the market that he seeks to safor him to be able to produce a range of lasts in sufficient sizes and fittings on which he can make a number of styles which will satisfy the needs of the largest percentage possible of that market segment for the lowest cost in last plant, equipment and finished stocks on the selves of his and the retailer’s stock rooms.
2. The retailer needs to measure his customer’s feet in order that he can select from his selves the footwear that when tried on the customer’s feet, will produce an acceptable fit.

1. Measurement for bespoke footwear

  The bespoke shoemaker would often require :

  1) A draft – outline plan of the foot with weight on

  2) An impression – to show the distribution of weight

  3) A profile – to show height of big toe and instep contour

  4) Length ( taken on a size stick )

  5) Width ( taken from draft )

  6) Girth measurements ( locations markets on draft ).

  a) Joint – around metatarso – phalangeal joint

  b) Waist – smallest girth behind joint

  c) Instep – smallest girth passing over prominence on middle cuneiform

  d) Long heel – seat to instep to give “pass line” in riding boot

  e) Short heel – seat to lowest crease in front of ankle

  f) Ankle – around and above ankle bones

  g) Calf, thigh as necessary

SHOE CARE

Caring For Your Shoes and your feet

Steps to Better Shoe Care
Start a Home Care program of cleaning, conditioning, polishing and
weatherproofing.
Use cedar shoe trees to keep shoes looking their best. Cedar's unique wicking
action absorbs moisture, acid and salt, thereby reducing cracking and
deterioration of leather.
In a pinch? Cornstarch will help remove foot odor. Or for a less messy application
use an anti-odor insole, shoe deodorant powder, or aerosol available at shoe shops.
Extend the life of your shoes with protective soles. These are very thin rubber
soles applied over the sole of the shoe to make it longer wearing.
Practice preventive maintenance. Repair your shoes before every-day wear turns
into damage.
Remove salt stains immediately with easy-to-use salt stain remover
Buy new shoes in the evening. Feet increase in size by 5-8% by the end of the
day.Preveent knee, hip, and back problems by keeping shoe heels balanced.
Buy quality shoes. In an average day, a man takes about 8,000 steps. If he 170
pounds, the daily force that accumulates on his feet is 1,000 TONS. Spend a few
extra dollars for shoes that will give you the support you need.
Leather Care
Caring for smooth leather is a four-step process. First, clean the shoes with a
leather cleaner to remove the surface dirt. Next, condition the leather.
Conditioners soften and lubricate the leather.
Next, it is time for the polish. A paste polish provides a high-gloss, long-lasting
shine, but takes some time to apply. Liquid polish is quick and easy to apply, but
must be applied more frequently. Cream polishes privide a happy medium.
After the shoes are shined, weatherproof them. If you live or work in a messy
environment, the protection of a weatherproofer is a must.
Suede and Nubuck
The key to keeping these materials in top shape is preventive maintenance.
Before you wear the shoes, protect them with a water and stain repellant
designed specifically for suede and nubuck. As soon as the water isn't beading
up on the shoes, spray them again.
Use a plastic or rubber-tipped brush regularly to restore the nap and remove
surface dirt before it sets in. Be gentle brushing nubuck.It is softer than suede
and easily damaged. With oiled nubuck, use a nubuck conditionaer regularly to
replace the oils that wear takes out. If you get a stain, remove it immediately with
a solvent-based cleaner made specifically for suede or nubuck. Oil absorbing
blocks are available for this purpose.
Exotic Leathers
Use mild cleaner and conditioner for exotic leathers such as reptile or snakeskin.
Using products for smooth leather may leave a residue that will build up around
the base of the scales and cause them to crack or fall off.
Athletic Shoes
If you have shoes with fabric or suede on the uppers, follow the steps outlined for
suede care. Leather uppers can be cleaned with sneaker shampoos htat remove
wtains and dirt. If the shoes become scuffed, whitening products restore the
original color. Shoe repair professionals can also use a white spray dye for a likenew
finish.
The big problem is controlling odor. These shoes are constructed with materials
that make ideal places for bacteria to live and grow. Use a deodorizing product
that absorbs odor causing bacteria and counteracts it.
Finally, you can keep athletic shoes looking and feeling new with replacement
parts. New laces do wonders for the appearance and new insoles are often
better than the originals.